June 2008 Archives

I was out of town earlier this week and got the shock of a lifetime when I returned. Plastered on the window outside the entrance door to the winery is a sign saying PUBLIC NOTICE OF APPLICATION FOR OWNERSHIP CHANGE.  It's one of those mandatory signs that you often see outside new bars, restaurants, etc., except this one is yellow.

Funny thing is…we aren't for sale!

A couple of thoughts popped into my head.

1. The Husband has pulled a fast one on me and is headed to the Bahamas.
2. My father got sick of retiring on a little bit of money and has decided he wants to retire on a LOT of money.
3. My staff is trying to see how many grey hairs I can grow in one day.

After further investigation, I've learned that this is a classic case of bureaucracy in action. The California ABC (Department of Alcohol Beverage Control) requires such notices any time there's been a change in corporate structure. Something about our development of a board of directors and the estate planning that my father has done, sent up a red flag that resulted in this obnoxious yellow sign. I simply can not believe it. I can just hear the rumors around the valley now. And, it needs to remain in place for 30 days!

So, if you happen to come by, don't be alarmed. It's just governmental red tape at its best. Definitely something to consider though if you're thinking about changing your winery's structure or beginning the estate planning process.

One of my ongoing tasks is meeting with wine writers. Sometimes it's to introduce a new product, sometimes it's to taste through the line and discuss winemaking styles, or as I've done more recently, it's to tell our story and introduce writers to the “new and improved” Dry Creek Vineyard. Every now and again, we simply break bread and chat about the state of the industry. These are the most fun as they often result in a fascinating exchange for both of us.  

Last week I had lunch with Jim Laube from Wine Spectator. We shot the breeze, as they say, on a myriad of topics.  Top of my mind was his recent blog post entitled Dry Creek Valley's Wines Should Be Better.  We chatted about the Dry Creek Valley dilemma, the rumored possibility of a sale of Chateau Montelena and the use of screw caps—or “twisties” as Jim likes to refer to them. Of particular fascination to me was his opinion on non-vintage vs. vintage wines. It might surprise some of you to learn that Jim believes that consumers might be better served in the long run if the wine industry did away with vintage dated wines in favor of non-vintage wines—much like they do with Champagne and Port.  I was very surprised to hear this especially from someone who quite vocally denounced the 2000 vintage (of course, he was right) and who has legions of followers who anxiously await his annual vintage report. 

The premise makes some sense. It certainly would eliminate, or at least greatly reduce, quality variation due to vintage. There's the added bonus to winemakers who could blend to their heart's content ever in pursuit of making the highest quality wines possible regardless of what Mother Nature has provided in raw materials. And, then there's the simplicity in packaging. (I could print a 10-year supply if I wanted to!) And, of course, we wouldn't have pundits reporting on the quality of vintages, at least not the way they do now. What a relief that would be.

We both agreed that it would probably never happen in our lifetime. But it's an interesting concept and not one that gets discussed much.

I'd love to hear your thoughts and welcome your comments.

Sometimes I wonder why we stay in this industry. Is it for the love of producing a great product that we thoroughly enjoy? Is it the thrill of creating something delicious and satisfying that enhances the dining experience? Or is it the sheer challenge of building something that has the power to endure long after we're gone.  I honestly don't know. All I can say is it gets in your blood. Especially when you've grown up with it. But there are days when the pressure, the responsibility and the sheer amount of work involved in growing, producing, managing, and marketing wines today can be daunting. And, after a week from hell I begin to question things.

Last night I was driving down Dry Creek Road on one of those rare summer evenings. It was warm and sultry and perfect for an open sunroof. Better yet, I was alone and not late for some appointment, meeting or commitment. And, the cell phone was silent. Trust me, this just doesn't happen much any more. I realized how simple it used to be around here. We ran a winery, did our work and went home to relax or be with our families. We didn't play phone tag. We didn't have computers, just a lowly fax that resided in the reception area. Every now and again we'd have a business dinner or go on the occasional sales trip. We visited with friends and neighbors and swap wine stories, harvest info, and tips on how to get distribution in some new faraway place, like New Jersey.  This was long before the dozens upon dozens upon dozens of new wineries opened their doors all around us. Long before the plethora of producers emerged from all corners of the globe. Long before wine buyers became impossible to impress. Long before wine writers and magazines became so powerful that they could make or break a brand. Long before the pressure to continually entertain and provide hospitality to complete strangers became the norm.  And, long before the frenetic pace of life we keep these days. It dawned on me that the very product that we promote as being part of the good life, is also keeping me from enjoying mine a good part of the time.  So, I've made a vow. I'm going to sit on my porch more often. I'm going to read just for the sake of reading, not to catch up on industry news, or respond to yet another email. And, I'm going to stop worrying about the future. I need to enjoy what's here now. Soak it up. Really see it for what it is. Simply slow down long enough to just be, instead of always being in the act of doing something. 

'Cause as they say, we've come a long way baby.

Oops, I'm getting ahead of myself.  Better just stick with the bottled stuff.